How to Draw Deck Plans for a Permit Application

The 4 Drawings Every Deck Permit Requires

Most jurisdictions require four separate drawings for a residential deck permit application. Some smaller counties accept a simplified single-sheet application — but if you draw all four correctly, you'll be covered everywhere. The four drawings are:

1. Site Plan — shows where the deck sits on your lot
2. Framing Plan — shows the structural layout from above
3. Elevation Drawing — shows the deck's side profile and height
4. Footing Detail — shows the underground foundation cross-section

Each drawing has required elements. Miss even one, and your application will likely be returned for revision — adding 1–3 weeks to your timeline. The list below tells you exactly what each drawing must show.

Drawing 1: The Site Plan

The site plan is a view of your entire property from directly above, showing where the deck will be located relative to the house and property lines. This is the drawing most commonly rejected for being incomplete.

Required Elements — Site Plan

How to Create Your Site Plan Without a Surveyor

You don't need a professional survey to draw an acceptable site plan for most residential deck permits. Here's the practical approach:

1. Get your recorded plat. Your property plat (the official survey map recorded when the subdivision was created) is available from your county Register of Deeds, Recorder of Deeds, or county assessor's office — often online for free. This gives you exact property line dimensions and the house location.
2. Measure your setbacks. Use a tape measure to measure from the edge of your proposed deck to each property line. Mark your fence lines as approximate property lines if you don't have exact survey stakes, and note this on your drawing.
3. Draw to scale on graph paper. 1/4-inch graph paper works well. Let each square = 2 or 5 feet. Draw the property outline, then the house, then the deck with dimensions.
4. Mark footing locations. Show each concrete footing as a small dot or circle. Include a simple legend explaining the symbols.

Drawing 2: The Framing Plan

The framing plan is the most technically demanding drawing. It shows the deck's structural skeleton from above — how the lumber is arranged and what sizes are used. Plan reviewers use this drawing to verify that your lumber spans comply with the IRC span tables.

How to Determine the Right Lumber Sizes

The IRC provides span tables that tell you exactly what lumber size you need based on your joist spacing and span. You don't need to memorize these — here are the most common combinations for a standard residential deck:

Joists spanning from ledger to beam (typical 10 ft span):

• 2×8 @ 12" o.c. → max span ~11'-7"
• 2×10 @ 16" o.c. → max span ~13'-2"
• 2×12 @ 16" o.c. → max span ~17'-9"

Beams (supporting joists, spanning between posts):

• (2) 2×8 beam → max span ~8 ft between posts
• (2) 2×10 beam → max span ~10 ft between posts
• (3) 2×10 beam → max span ~13 ft between posts

If your deck dimensions fall outside these typical ranges, consult IRC Table R507.6 (joists) and Table R507.5 (beams) for precise values, or ask your building department if they have pre-approved deck plans for standard configurations.

Drawing 3: The Elevation Drawing

The elevation shows your deck's side profile — height, railing, stairs, and how it connects to the house. This is where plan reviewers verify that your railing height and stair design comply with code.

Drawing 4: The Footing Detail

The footing detail is a cross-section view showing how each concrete footing is constructed underground. This is critical for structural safety and is carefully reviewed in areas with expansive soils, frost, or high wind loads.

Your footing detail must show:

• Footing dimensions: Diameter and depth. A common residential footing is 12" diameter round; some jurisdictions require 16" or larger. Depth must extend below the frost line (varies from 0" in Florida to 60"+ in Minnesota).
• Footing depth below grade: Explicitly labeled in inches or feet. "Below undisturbed soil" is the language to use.
• Concrete specification: Minimum 2,500 PSI compressive strength is standard; some jurisdictions require 3,000 PSI.
• Post base hardware: Show the type of post base used (Simpson ABA, ABU, or equivalent). This is where your post connects to the footing, and the connection type affects wind uplift resistance.
• Post size: 4×4 or 6×6, depending on height and code.

Tips for Getting Your Plans Accepted the First Time

Use graph paper and a ruler

Hand-drawn plans are accepted everywhere, but they need to be legible and to scale. 1/4-inch graph paper from any office supply store is the easiest medium. Use a ruler for all lines. Label everything clearly in printed letters.

State your scale and dimensions explicitly

Every drawing should state its scale ("1 inch = 10 feet") and every key dimension should be labeled with a number. Never make a reviewer measure something — label it.

Call your building department before submitting

Many counties have a "pre-application meeting" service where you can bring draft drawings to a counter technician before submitting formally. This 15-minute conversation can save you 2 weeks of revision turnaround time.

Use standard abbreviations

o.c. = on center, LF = linear feet, SF = square feet, PT = pressure-treated, HDG = hot-dipped galvanized, SP = Southern Pine, DF = Douglas Fir. These abbreviations are universally understood by plan reviewers.